There is a legend from Wales, that states that anyone who sleeps on the summit of the mountain of Cadair Idris will either die, go mad, or become a poet. When I was in my twenties, I knew that I wanted to be a writer – but I also knew that I had absolutely no money, and therefore the options of writing classes, retreats or a literature degree were not open to me. The deal offered by Cadair Idris therefore seemed appealing – it gave me a one-in-three chance of leaving inspired, which is better than some universities can offer.
The mountain makes for a fair old climb. It’s 893 metres in height, so there are plenty higher, but it has some wonderfully steep faces that make for an intriguing ascent. I started in Dolgellau, and took the route up the from the corrie of Llyn Y Gadair directly to the summit; this is a hard climb, but also a stunning one.
At the top, there’s a basic stone shelter which, if you’re willing to endure an uncomfortable floor, means it’s possible to stay up here even in weather that’s less than perfect. On the day of my ascent, however, the weather was as near perfect as it gets, and it was easy to raise a tent on the summit heath.
The views were phenomenal. The sun set over the Irish Sea and the Llŷn peninsula, and rose over the Cambrian mountains; it was clear and bright enough for me to see both, with just a hint of haze to add perspective to the distances. I would recommend the experience to anyone.
Did I leave inspired? Or mad? Well, I did eventually succeed in writing a book, and the particular form of inspiration that is to be found on the wild mountains of the Celtic lands plays a very big part in it – so I can say truthfully that the spirit of Cadair Idris does inhabit my writing. The wild places of this island have gifts to give, if you’re willing to endure a little discomfort to find them; I can testify to this with conviction.
Over the next few weeks, I’ll post a series of photos of some of the wild landscapes from the various corners of the Celtic lands that have most inspired me. I hope they’ll prove interesting viewing.
For more on the mythology and folklore connected to the wild places of the Celtic countries – and on the relationships between Welsh traditions and those of northern Britain in particular – do have a look at my book “The Ghosts of the Forest”.
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