The “Wild Heart Way”: A New Long-distance Trekking Route for South Scotland?

Last updated on May 30, 2023

This route is the result of a great many years spent hiking through South Scotland, and a great many hours poring over maps of it. I’ve come to the opinion over the years that there is something missing from the network of long-distance paths available to hikers in the Southern Uplands; that the existing network of long-distance paths doesn’t do as good a job of highlighting the finest landscapes in the region as it might. I could not, in all honesty, recommend to any hiker visiting Scotland from overseas for a once-in-a-lifetime trip that they should choose to do the Southern Upland Way ahead of some of the Highland trails – the West Highland Way for example, or the informal Cape Wrath Trail. This is despite my love for the south of the country – and despite the fact that I know from personal experience that it contains places that absolutely can deliver a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

This post is my attempt to address this omission. It covers a route through the hill country of the South that incorporates a selection of its finest landscapes, going higher and connecting a greater variety of scenery than the current network achieves. In the process it also joins some towns & villages not presently on the path network to one, and does the same for some of the country’s most inspiring nature reservations. It’s a route I’d happily recommend to anyone; and, having taken the time to think over its potential benefits, I thought it worthwhile sharing online. If officialdom were to engage with the idea of such a route, it could have significant benefits; for tourism in the region in general, and for eco-tourism in particular. I hope it will prove of interest, and perhaps spark some discussion.

Usually the photographs I post on this site are all mine. In this case, though, I wanted to do the best possible job of showcasing the region – and there are quite a few photos available of higher quality than mine! I’ve credited the photographers appropriately – and particular thanks to Jim Barton for making such exceptional shots available on Geograph.

Now, on to the route…

The Map

Here’s a Google Maps version of the suggested route, broken down into stages of a day in length:

The Name

I’ve dubbed this track “The Wild Heart Way”. “Wild Heart” is the name the Borders Forest Trust have chosen for the set of estates they’ve purchased in the Moffat Hills, where they are undertaking one of the most exciting re-wilding projects to be found anywhere in the British Isles; this route connects the population centres of Central Scotland to this wilderness zone. It then heads onwards to the more recent re-wilding initiative taking shape on the Langholm Moors too. Beyond these reserves, the whole region traversed actually suits the name Wild Heart very well; these hills are the core of the Southern Uplands, and they are as remote and empty as any in these islands.

For all these reasons, “Wild Heart” seemed an appropriate name to apply to this trail. By happy coincidence, it neatly mirrors the name of the most popular of Scotland’s trails, the West Highland Way; appropriately so, as this track creates a comparable eastern equivalent to that popular western route. That may seem a bold assertion – but read on, and you will begin to see where I’m coming from…

The Key Points

So, what does this route bring to the table that makes it worth the attention of hikers, both within Britain and, in my opinion, internationally too? Here’s a quick summary of its key plus points, before examining the route itself in more detail:

Height

Whereas the West Highland Way keeps the walker on the valley floor, looking up at the scenery, this new track would instead takes them up onto the tops, to look down into the valleys below and out into the far distance. The hills of the Southern Uplands are certainly more rounded and rolling than those of the Highlands, which is often seen as a negative; it means fewer dramatic rockfaces and pointed peaks to look up at. In the case of a long-distance path, however, it can be turned into a massive plus; a route may easily ascend those long slopes to the very tops of the hills and then remain there, using the rolling summit plateaus to connect the high points of the region. In the case of this route, these include the very highest hills in most of the ranges traversed – including the highest Corbetts of the region. The value of this cannot be understated; you’re up on the very roof of the country here and the prospects are vast, including both the seas to east and west, and the mountains of the Highlands and the Lake District.

Heritage

While the moors and high hills of the Southern Uplands are as wild as anywhere in Britain, the valleys that lie between them have a long and rich history of human habitation. The past has therefore left some evocative traces on the landscapes. En route, the walker will encounter;

• A series of ancient hillforts, including several of the most spectacular in the Borders.
• The ruins of Drochil & Tinnis castles
• The traditional site of Merlin’s Grave by the Tweed
• The first Tibetan Buddhist monastery established in the western world, and one of the most impressive
• The stone circles of Eskdale
• The MacDiarmid Memorial & Whita Hill Monument above Langholm

The little towns with which the path connects are also historic, beautiful places themselves. Walkers who prefer not to use a tent will find the majority of the stops along the way provide excellent options for food and accommodation – and a superb selection of pubs too.

Heather

The hilltops of the Southern Uplands are largely clothed in huge expanses of heather moor. In the prime walking season from late July through August, that heather blooms – and the high terrain is transformed into a vast ocean of blazing purple blossoms, scenting the air and drawing bees and butterflies. It’s a stunning sight.

Capital Connection

As the West Highland Way starts in Glasgow, so this Wild Heart Way begins in Edinburgh. This is a major benefit; a great many hikers in or near Edinburgh would be very interested in walking right from their doorstep all the way into the wildest of the interior hills. For visitors coming from further away, it would build in to the experience a visit to one of the finest cities in Europe; a wonderful place to spend some time, and the best possible introduction to the culture and history of the land. The transport connections are obviously excellent.

In contrast to the West Highland Way, however, connecting to the city does not in this case entail any sacrifice to the quality of the route. The Pentland Hills Regional Park begins right on the southern edge of Edinburgh, and so it is possible to walk directly from the city into hill-country terrain. Where the West Highland Way takes a day to really get going, this new route would start as it means to go on.

Stage 1 – 22.5km, 07:08 hours walking

The path departs Edinburgh from Bonaly, via the country park; the number 10 city bus service terminates here. It rises through the woods onto the high moorland on the northern edge of the hills, with excellent views back over the city and the Firth of Forth. From there, it enters the interior valleys of the hills through Phantom’s Cleugh, before running along the northern edge of the Glencorse Reservoir. It then traces the beautiful valley of the Logan Burn upstream for a few kilometres, before ascending the hillside to the south to reach the summit of Scald Law – the highest summit in the Pentlands.

From Scald Law, the path stays atop the Pentland ridge for a ways, running over the pointed peaks of the Kips and then on south via the summit of Spittal Hill. It then descends into the valley of the North Esk by way of Fairliehope.

At the foot of this valley, you reach the attractive little village of Carlops. There’s a fine inn for a meal (or pint). On the southern edge of the village are to be found two giant boulders associated with witches, from where the path departs the road to run through the eerie little valley of the Hollow Haugh. At Hell’s Hole, it ascends to follow a farm track that runs parallel to the old Roman road for three kilometres more, down to the little town of West Linton. Here there are accommodation options, shops, transport connections and restaurants.

Stage 2 – 25.5km, 08:05 hours walking

From West Linton, the route broadly follows the line of the existing Cross Borders Drove road across the brief flat stretch of the Lyne valley, and then up into the hills above Romannobridge. Just before the Fingland Burn, it diverts from the Drove Road to instead trace the crest of the hills southwestwards. From the summits of Drum Maw and White Knowe there are excellent views over the Pentlands and the surrounding terrain. On the descent, down Whiteside Hill towards Flemington, the route cuts across a ruinous hillfort – the first of several on the journey, and a particularly fine example.

At Flemington, the track rejoins the road for a couple of kilometres, following the Lyne directly south  past the ruins of Drochil Castle to Tarth Bridge. Here, it ascends the hillside once again, to climb up to the plateau of Ladyurd Hill. Thereafter, it drops into the interior valley of Stobo Hope, before rising again to the heights of Hammer Head and Trahenna. Trahenna marks the highest point on today’s route, coming in at 549 metres – only 30 less than the highest point of the Pentlands. From up here, there are expansive views across the whole of the Upper Tweeddale National Scenic Area, and the high hills behind.

From Trahenna, the path descends the long ridge of Dreva Hill, before running over the fine hillfort of Dreva Craig, before crossing the river Tweed at Merlindale Bridge. Here, stage two ends at the little village of Drumelzier – site of the dramatic ruins of Tinnis Castle, and of the traditional site of Merlin’s grave.

From Drumelzier a regular bus service can take you to either Biggar to the west (for connections to Glasgow, Edinburgh or Dumfries), or to the town of Peebles to the east (for connections to Edinburgh). Both are wonderful places to visit in their own right, and a night in either will allow a resupply, a pint and a meal in an excellent restaurant.

Stage 3 – 23.3km, 07:45 hours walking

From Drumelzier, the route follows the Drumelzier Burn into the hills, before following a farm track up the long, heathery slope of Den Knowes to the summit of Pykestone Hill. Here it joins the Thief’s Road; an ancient, high level track much used by Border Reivers on their way to plunder. The track runs over an undulating, high level plateau of moorland studded with rocks; in clear weather, the views of the surrounding valleys and the distant hills are absolutely superb. A couple of hours to the south, just past the summit of Dollar Law, the route departs from the Thief’s Road, to ascend the two summits of Cramalt Craig and Broad Law. These are the two highest hills in this part of the interior. Broad Law is high enough to qualify as a Corbett, and is the highest point on this whole route. It is also the second highest hill in the whole Southern Uplands, surpassed only by the Merrick – and that only by a mere three metres.

From the summit of Broad Law, the route descends into the valleys of Megget and Talla by way of Cairn Law. The views in either direction along the valley are very beautiful indeed. The path reaches the road at the Megget Stone, then traces it briefly west past the Talla waterfalls, before turning off to the south into the valley of Gameshope. This is a steep and rocky little glen, and a very fine one. It also forms the northern edge of the Borders Forest Trust’s Wild Heart Region; an extensive nature reserve where re-wilding activity is taking place, attempting to restore the native forests of the Southern Upland interior. A kilometre and a half up the track, the path reaches the bothy of Gameshope; this is the only accommodation available for miles around, and so it is here that this portion of the route terminates. No restaurants this time; it’s the bothy beds or a tent.

Stage 4 – 19km, 06:05 hours walking

From Gameshope, the route follows the valley inwards, passing some impressive rock formations and a waterfall. It then ascends the subsidiary valley of Firthybrig Head, to look down over the cliffs of Water Craig into the corrie of Loch Skeen – the highest loch in the Southern Uplands. From here, it runs south past the top of the Midlaw valley, to reach the summit of White Coomb. At 822 metres in height, this is also a Corbett, and the third highest of the Southern Upland peaks. It’s a fantastic spot, with wonderful views down into the steep-sided valley of Moffatdale.

From White Coomb, the path traces the rim of the valley immediately to the south. This is the valley called Carrifran; the first of the Borders Forest Trust’s properties in the area, and the one in which the resurgent woodland is most advanced. From above, it makes an impressive sight – and the surrounding peaks and waterfalls are very attractive too.

The southern edge of Carrifran valley is marked by the peak of Saddle Yoke; a pointed, steep-sided summit that provides the only true ridge-walk in South Scotland. The route traces this ridge, eventually following it down into Moffatdale.

The path stays only very briefly on the valley floor, crossing directly to the other side to follow an ancient track uphill, behind Bodesbeck farm. The burn here has carved out a number of rock formations that are well worth a look, and a kilometre uphill there is to be found a standing stone that aligns perfectly with the summit of Saddle Yoke – a stunning spot for a photograph.

Thereafter, the route crests the rim of Moffatdale and descends into the Ettrick valley beyond. Here, it intersects with the Southern Upland Way, and stops for the night at the bothy of Over Phawhope. This is a little cottage with a big history; it played a major part in the literary history of the region, as well as being the setting for a great many supernatural tales.

If you’re doing the route in stages, this section can be connected to the nearby spa town of Moffat; an excellent place to stop overnight, with an abundance of hotels, restaurants, and attractions of its own. If doing so, you can either call a taxi to pick you up in Moffatdale, or hike west over the summit of Hart Fell to descend into the town directly. This extension has the advantage of adding the final of the three Wild Heart Corbetts to the journey; Hart Fell is on the Corbett list, along with White Coomb and Broad Law. If you do make this connection, however, do be sure to reascend via Hart Fell next time – missing out the descent of Saddle Yoke is to miss out on one of the finest views on the whole journey. Several routes of ascent up Hart Fell are available, so doing it twice is no sacrifice.

Stage 5 – approx. 23.4km (depending on end point), 06:45 hours walking

From Over Phawhope, the route ascends up the valley of the Entertrona Burn to the summit of Ettrick Pen – the highest of the tops around Ettrickdale, with excellent views. From here, it descends through the upper reaches of Eskdalemuir Forest to Eskdale itself. Here, it passes the impressive Tibetan Buddhist monastery at Kagyu Samye Ling, before visiting the stone circles and hillforts of Eskdale as the valley wends south.

Exactly where this stage ends depends on the choice of accommodation; there is no bothy easily available here, so the choice is between a series of rental cottages or camping. My own preferred choice would be to camp at the hillfort of Castle O’er, from which there are wonderful views over the surrounding area.

Stage 6 – approx. 23.4km (depending on starting point), 06:45 hours walking

The route traces river Esk as it winds its way down to Langholm, here and there rising into the hills on either side. The path avoids the principal road for most of the route, instead cutting through a variety of woods on either bank of the valley. It traverses a couple of hillforts on its way, before finally ascending to the summit of Mid Hill. Here there are excellent views down into the town of Langholm. This little town is the final stop for the night; there are abundant options for accommodation, supply and refreshment to be found here.

Stage 7 – 26.7km, 08:07 hours walking

From the centre of Langholm, the route follows the old Whita Road up to the top of Whita Hill, where an impressive Victorian monument looms over the moors. It then follows a hill track northwards, connecting with the road at the MacDiarmid memorial.

From here, the track drops down over the moors to near the Tarras Water, before following this river upstream for around 7 kilometres. The further into the Tarras valley the path leads, the wilder the terrain becomes; the interior is remote, empty moorland. For many years it was operated as a shooting estate, but has recently been taken into community ownership. Plans are now underfoot for a re-wilding project, with associated eco-tourism options; passing through this landscape is already a wonderful experience, but is likely to become even more so as the years go by.

At the head of the valley, the route ascends via a long, steady track up to the summit plateau of the surrounding hills – which now go by the name of fells. In times past the fell country here was referred to as the Tarras Waste, and was a notorious den for reiver clans of the Debatable Land. The path connects the highest of its summits, culminating at the top of Roan Fell; 568m in height, and the highest point in this stretch of hills. The path then makes a long, steady descent southeastwards, across the moors to the town of Newcastleton. This is the main settlement of Liddesdale and the last town in Scotland; the English border lies only a few kilometres to the south, where the hills of northern Cumbria rise up swiftly behind. It is at Newcastleton that the Scottish trail ends; arriving here, a walker has in seven days traversed the entirety of South Scotland, from the capital all the way to the Border.

At Newcastleton all the comforts of civilisation are available, along with bus connections to Langholm and Hawick, and on to Carlisle or Edinburgh beyond.

Stages 8 & 9 – combined 38.7km, 11:00 hours walking

Newcastleton would make a very appropriate endpoint – but there is also considerable merit in adding an extension. A very fine route can be traced along forestry tracks and rights-of-way through the forests of Newcastleton and Kershope, running along the lower reaches of the Bewcastle Fells. With a stop for the night at or near Bewcastle itself – a beautiful village, site of a Roman fort, temple, and an extraordinary Northumbrian high cross – the route can then cross the north Cumbrian moors to the wooded valley of the Irthing. From there it can descend along the river to the village of Gilsland, where it reaches the line of Hadrian’s Wall. Here there are accommodation options, and bus connections west to Carlisle and east to Newcastle.

At Gilsland, the path also intersects with the Hadrian’s Wall Path. That path in turn connects with the Pennine Way just a couple of kilometres to the east, at Greenhead; from here, the Pennine Way runs southwards onto its own highest stretches. The two-day southward extension of the Wild Heart Way thereby connects to some of the finest trails of northern England, making it possible to hike from Edinburgh right through to Newcastle or Carlisle, or even continuously down the spine of Britain all the way to Derbyshire. Either is a tantalizing prospect – and considerably enhances the connective value of the existing long-distance path network.

Timings

1 Week Option

From Edinburgh to Newcastleton, the route can be done in 7 days by the stages described. With one week off work, you could therefore start on a Sunday and finish on a Saturday, allowing a free day at either end for travel.

2 Week Options

With two weeks to play with, the extension down to Hadrian’s Wall could be added, with a further 5 days of walking time. This is enough time to follow the Pennine Way all the way down to Hawes in Wensleydale, or the Hadrian’s Wall Path all the way to Newcastle.

When to do it

My recommendation would be to choose either late July/early August, so as to take in the best of the heather before the shooting season starts, or to opt for April/May, when the gorse is in bloom and the air is still clear and crisp enough to allow for the most extensive possible views.

In conclusion

This route is not perfect. There are some gaps in the accommodation options available, and some areas where the existing paths and tracks I’ve used to construct it could be improved upon. Were officialdom to engage with the idea of such a route, however, the addition of a few extra footbridges over the Esk, the odd forestry path here and there, and perhaps a bus service connecting Selkirk and Moffat by way of the inner valleys would enhance it considerably. Even without those improvements, however, the route as it stands has the capacity to deliver some wonderful experiences to anyone who takes the time to follow it; and I would have no hesitation at all in commending it to anyone who should choose to visit Scotland, no matter how far they may have come.

I’d be keen to hear the thoughts of anyone with an interest in such trails, and to see if a route such as this has any potential for development. If you have any ideas to share, do please get in touch via the comments below.

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If you’ve enjoyed this post, and have an interest in the subject matter it explores – the legends, landscapes and the history of the Borderland region – do give my book “The Ghosts of the Forest” a look. It details a number of other such routes, and dives far, far deeper into the culture of the region; if you were to give it a moment of your time, I’d be very grateful.

More articles from this site on hiking routes through the Southern Uplands can be found here; Old North Hiking Routes.

© William Young and Inter-Celtic, 2023, except where otherwise stated. Unauthorised use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this blog’s author and/or owner is strictly prohibited. Excerpts and links may be used, provided that full and clear credit is given to William Young and Inter-Celtic with appropriate and specific direction to the original content.